Uncovering the origins of Adlib: do you know where Ibiza’s most famous fashion got its name from?

How did Ibiza’s most iconic fashion style gain international fame?

Thursday, November 07 2024, 2.05pm

The essence of Ibiza, famed for its free-spirited charm and natural beauty, finds perfect expression in Adlib fashion, a style rooted deeply in the island’s bohemian and multicultural heritage.

Emerging in the 1970s, Adlib is more than just a clothing style; it is a fashion movement that embodies freedom, comfort, and a connection to Ibiza’s unique landscape and traditions.

This article explores its origins, the role of visionary Smilja Mihailovitch in shaping the movement, and how it has evolved into a globally recognised symbol of Ibizan culture.

Adlib Fashion Show In The 70S.
Adlib fashion show in the 70s.

Origins of Adlib fashion

Adlib, derived from the Latin phrase ‘ad libitum‘, meaning ‘at one’s pleasure’, was born in the early 1970s in Ibiza, a time when the island attracted a mix of artists, hippies, and free spirits from around the world. These early visitors were drawn by Ibiza’s natural beauty, relaxed lifestyle, and cultural openness, all of which helped shape the philosophy behind this fashion style. Inspired by this atmosphere, Adlib embraced the idea of dressing freely and authentically, without restrictive rules, encouraging people to express themselves through light, flowing fabrics and simple, timeless silhouettes.

The style was heavily influenced by traditional Ibizan clothing, which typically featured loose, comfortable garments made from natural materials. These pieces were often decorated with intricate lacework, embroidery, and crochet, reflecting a centuries-old craftsmanship passed down through generations. The movement adopted these elements but infused them with a fresh, modern twist, creating a style that felt both traditional and contemporary.

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Adlib 1972, fashion show in Roca Llisa.

The vision of Smilja Mihailovitch

One of the most influential figures in Adlib fashion was Smilja Mihailovitch, a Yugoslav princess who relocated to Ibiza in the 1960s. Smilja recognised the potential of Adlib as more than just clothing—it could become a symbol of Ibiza itself. With a sophisticated eye for fashion and a deep love for the island, she became the face and promoter of this fashion, launching the first Adlib Fashion Show in 1971.

Smilja’s efforts helped bring international attention to Adlib, presenting it as an elegant, relaxed alternative to the more rigid styles prevalent in mainstream fashion at the time. Her vision was to create a fashion style that anyone could adopt, regardless of their body type or social status. Under her guidance, Adlib gained recognition beyond Ibiza, drawing the attention of designers, fashion editors, and celebrities who were captivated by its ethereal, feminine qualities.

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Smilja and Gina Lollobrigida.

The evolution of Ibiza’s fashion

The initial concept of ‘dress how you please’ quickly resonated with the growing counterculture movement, which valued individuality and a return to natural beauty. Over the years, the style began to incorporate influences from other bohemian trends popular in the 1970s, blending traditional Ibizan embroidery and lace with modern cuts and styles. The Adlib Fashion Show became an annual event, showcasing local and international designers who interpreted the fashion aesthetic in diverse ways, while preserving its foundational values of freedom and authenticity.

In the decades that followed, Adlib continued to evolve. It began to adapt to changing fashion trends, exploring new fabrics, colours, and silhouettes while staying true to its core principles. Local designers began experimenting with eco-friendly materials, incorporating sustainability into their work to reflect a respect for Ibiza’s natural environment. Today, this fashion includes a wide range of designs, from casual beachwear to more formal, elegant pieces that are perfect for special occasions.

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A model, Smilja and the US cotton farmers’ union in 1975.

The global impact of the brand

Adlib’s influence has reached far beyond the shores of Ibiza. Its breezy, effortless style has inspired global fashion trends, influencing designers worldwide who seek to capture the same relaxed yet refined aesthetic. The emphasis on artisanal craftsmanship, particularly through the use of lace, crochet, and embroidery, has helped revive traditional techniques and crafts that were once in danger of being lost. The style has also brought attention to Ibiza as a fashion destination, with visitors flocking to the island to experience its unique style and culture firsthand.

In recent years, Adlib has embraced digitalisation, with the annual fashion show now reaching audiences through live-streamed events and social media. This shift has allowed the movement to maintain its relevance in an increasingly globalised fashion world, introducing Adlib to younger audiences who resonate with its themes of freedom, sustainability, and self-expression.

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Smilja with actress Ursula Andrews.

Today, Adlib is not only a symbol of Ibizan culture but also a testament to the island’s ability to adapt and grow while preserving its heritage. Designers continue to honour the original spirit of Adlib by creating collections that celebrate Ibiza’s traditions while reflecting the latest trends and innovations. The style remains deeply tied to the island, embodying its laid-back lifestyle, its commitment to environmental responsibility, and its open, inclusive community.

In many ways, Adlib is a celebration of Ibiza itself—a place where people are encouraged to live freely, authentically, and harmoniously with nature. Through its enduring popularity, Adlib fashion reminds us of the beauty of simplicity and the importance of preserving cultural heritage in a fast-paced world.

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